Am redescoperit România cu ajutorul aplicației de teren al Facultății de „Geografia Turismului – Bistrița”, plecând spre Țara Hațegului pe traseul Târgu Mureș – Turda – Deva – Hunedoara – Baru Mare, unde ne-am cazat.
Am trecut prin Culoarul Alba- Iulia – Turda, pe lângă Munții Trascăului, cei plini de calcar și împânziți de trasee de drumeție, spre care am văzut de departe Cheile Turzii, Cheile Vălișoarei.
Munții Trascău sunt parte componentă a Munților Apuseni care aparțin Carpaților Occidentali, recunoscuți pentru superbele trasee de drumeție, printre cele mai cunoscute fiind: Cheile Turzii, Cheile Turenilor, Cheile Aiudului, Cheile Valișoarei, Stânca Secuiului de la Râmetea (localitate recunoscută pentru casele vopsite în alb, cu ferestre verzi și mușcăți la ferestre).
Drumul m-a îndreptat spre Alba Iulia, oraș situat pe malul Mureșului unde am și poposit câteva ore. Orașul este recunoscut mai ales datorită Cetații Alba Carolina, construită în stil vauban, pe locul actualei cetați aflându-se în trecut un castru roman Apulum. Între anii 1541 – 1711, Alba Iulia a fost reședința principiilor Transilvaniei.
Mi-am continuat vizita spre Catedrala Încoronării, lăcașul deservind Catedrală a Episcopiei Ortodoxe de Alba Iulia, fiind construită între 28.03.1921 – 08.10.1922. Este o construcție realizată în stil bizantin, fiind inspirată din Biserica Domnească din Târgoviște, vechi loc de încoronare pentru voievozi valahi. Edificiul are formă greacă, intrarea în biserică făcându-se printr-un pridvor deschis cu arcade sprijinite de coloane cu capiteluri, iar în nișele laterale din pridvor sunt fixate 4 plăci de marmră cu inscripții comemorative care ilustrează 4 evenimente importante: Tiparirea Noului Testament de Mitropolitul Simion Ștefan 1648, Unirea de la 1600 înfăptuită de Mihai Viteazu, Martirii Horea Cloșca și Crișan, Refacerea unității spirituale a romanilor.
Următoarele atracții turistice din Alba Iulia au fost : Catedrala Romano – Catolică Sfâtul Mihai, construită între anii 1237 – 1291, cea mai veche catedrală din Transilvania care continuă să funcționeze și astăzi; Șanțurile Cetății, Grupul Statuar al Corifeilor Uniri, Celula lui Horea, Cloșca și Crișan; Muzeul Național al Unirii Alba Iulia, Biblioteca Batthyaneum, Palatul Apor, Obeliscul ridicat în memoria lui Horea – Cloșca și Crișan, Statuia Ecvestră a Voievodului Mihai Viteazul, Monumentul închinat memoriei lui Avram Iancu, Monumentul Custozza, Monumentul Losenau, Busturile Regelui Ferdinand și al Reginei Maria.
Apoi mi-am continuat drumul prin Culoarul Oraștie spre Deva, oraș situat pe Râul Mureș, între Munții Poiana Ruscă (altitudine maximă în Vf. Padeșu 1374 m și Vf Ruscă 1355m ) și Munții Metaliferi. Am trecut pe lângă stațiunea balneo-climaterică Geoagiu Băi (cunoscută pe vremea romanilor ca „Thermae Germisara”), recunoscută pentru apele termale de foarte bună calitate, pentru Cascada Clocota și Termele Romane).
Cand ajungi în Deva nu ai cum să nu observi Cetatea Devei, construită la mijlocul secolului al XIII-lea, pe Dealul Cetății, acesta nefiind altceva decât un con vulcanic cu altitudine de 378.
La 15 km de Deva, te poți bucura să vezi Măgura Uroiu – rezervație geomorfologicăț reprezentând un neek vulcanic format în urma activității vulcanice neogene, sau de cel mai mare Parc Dendrologic Simeria, amenajat în lunca râului Mureș, la altitudini cuprinse între 190 – 200 m, având o suprafață de 73.5 ha. Acesta a fost creat la începutul secolului al XVIII-lea prin amenajarea de zăvoaie naturale. Timp de aprox 200 secole și jumătate s-a aflat în proprietatea privată a 4 generații de nobili maghiari: Gyulay Ferenc, Kun, Fay Bela, Ocskay Istvan. În prezent deține peste 2100 de specii de arbori și arbuști indigeni sau exotici, printre care specii rare ca: rășinoase, magnolii, bambuși.
O atracție nouă în peisajul hunedorean o reprezintă Muzeul Trenulețelor din Hunedoara (Muzeu în miniatură realizat în memoria lui Valentin Banciu, o mare parte din exponate aparținând colecției acestuia, de peste 40 ani, o parte din trofee câștigate pe parcursul vieții, colecții de mașinuțe și este unic datorită dioramei, singura cu peisaj montan din țară ) și fabuloasa Grădina amenajată – Giardino di ZOE (Gradinile BanPotoc).
Gradina Giardino di Zoe poartă numele nepoatei sale, prototipul femeii ideale, deoarece în grădina trebuie să găsești echilibru. Am mai vizitat impunatorul Castel al Huniazilor din Hunedoara, considerat unul din cele ma frumoase castele din lume, care își găsește copia fidelă în Budapesta sub aceeași denumire și Catedrala Ortodoxă „Sfinții Împărați Constantin și Elena”din Hunedoara, monument istoric de arhitectură religioasă, construit între anii 1939 – 1946, din beton și cărămidă. De cum am intrat în biserică, aceasta a avut un efect linistitor asupra mea datorat atât imensității, cât și corului bisericesc.
Am coborât apoi spre localitatea Baru Mare, prin Depresiunea Hațegului, situată între Munții Șureanu, Munții Țarcu, Munții Retezat și Munții Poiana Ruscă, trecând prin Călan, situat pe malul râului Strei, – recunoscută pentru băile romane Aquae. Băile sunt recunoscute pentru apele termominerale de 27 – 29 gr C, de tip bicarbonată, clorurată, calcică, sodică, magneziană cu o culoare galben roșiatic, indicând un conținut sensibil mai ridicat de fier. Efectele terapeutice ale acestor ape termale sunt folosite în tratamentul reumatismului, spondilozei, artrozei, poliartrozei, reumatismului, a unor boli de piele şi a neuroasteniei.
Din Barul Mare, pașii ne-au purtat în prima zi spre Turnul de vamă medieval al Crivadiei situat în Pasul Merișor, deasupra apei Merișorului, pe directia Petroșani. A fost construit în sec al XVI –lea, în scop de observație, care în trecut adăpostea un rezervor de apă. Reprezentanții Geoparcului Dinozaurilor Țara Hațegului spun că ar fi fost construit la cererea nobilimii din Țara Hațegului care erau nemulțumiți de contrabanda cu aur și vite dintre olteni și hațegani. Astfel, turnul ar fi vegheat drumul care legă Transilvania de Oltenia și Țara Românească. La turn se ajunge foarte ușor, pe un drum de pădure de aprox 5 minute, unde odata ce ai urcat vei da de o panoramă foarte frumoasă.
De aici, la scurtă distanță ajungi la superba Peștera Bolii, care face parte din Parcul Național Gradiștea Muncelului – Cioclovina, numele său provenind mai cu seamă de la familia Bolia, fiind mentionat pentru prima dată în 1404 într- un act de donație al regelui Sigismund, prin care voievodul primea proprietăți de pământ și păduri din zonă. Peștera a fost săpată în calcareld Jurasice ale Dealului Bolii de apele pâraielor Jupâneasa și Galbina, la o altitudine de 720 m și se întinde pe 455 m. Intrarea peșterii are o lărgime de 20 m și o înălțime de 10 m, pereți de 45 m înălțime.
Numele pârâului provine de la frumoasa legendă a Jupânesei, odinioară stăpâna pământurilor din această trecatoare. Se spune că Jupâneasa era o domniță care în taină, iși dorea ca iubitul ei să se întoarcă din război, fiind chemat la luptă de Lupii Albi. Aceasta cobora în peșteră la icoana Sfintei Fecioare Maria și se ruga să o ajute ca să fie împreună cu iubitul plecat. Fecioara Maria o transformă pe aceasta într-un pârâu care curge vijelios la vale, căutandu-și iubitul, săpand de dor, piatra muntelui și pereții peșterii.
De la Peștera Bolii, pașii ne-au fost îndreptati spre Cetatea Mălăiești, o cetate cu donjon (sec XIV) și incintă inelară din piatră, la care, ulterior, s-au adăugat încă 4 turnuri poligonale. Aceasta ar fi fost ridicată de familia Sărăcin ca punct de observație și de apărare.
Apoi am plecat spre Biserica Ortodoxă Sfântul Nicolae din Densuș, una din cele mai vechi biserici din România, considerându-se că ar fi fost ridicată între anii XII – XIII, construită pe locul unei vechi construcții din secolul al IX –lea d Cr, materialul provenind din Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa, noua capitală a daciei cucerite de romani,situată la câțiva km distantă, pe care am vizitat-o și noi ulterior. Pictura bisericii este foarte veche și se crede că ar data din secolul al XV –lea. Se spune că aici ar fi existat acum mai bine de 200 de ani, un altar dacic.
Tot în această minunată aplicație geografică, ne-am oprit la Sarmizegetusa Ulpia Romana, fosta capitală a provinciei romane Dacia, situată la 40 km de Sarmizegetusa Regia, pricipalul centru politic, religios, economic și militar al lumii dacice, cunoscută sub denumirea de Grădiștea de Munte – Sarmizegetusa Regia și face parte din complexul de cetăți dacice din Munții Orăștiei, întinzându-se pe 4.5 km, pe un deal.
In ultima zi ne-am bucurat de Rezervația de Zimbrii, situată la aprox 7 km de Hațeg, de Sarmizegetusa Regia situată la 40 km de Călan (din Parul Natural Grădiștea Muncelului Cioclovina) și Mănăstirea Prislop – Arsenie Boca – la 30 km de Călan, aproape de localitatea Silvașu de Sus, Hunedoara, biserica mănăstirii datând din sec al – XVI – lea.
Apropiindu-ne tot mai mult de casă, am ajuns în Lancrăm unde astepta să fie vizitată Casa Memorială Lucian Blaga din satul Lancrăm pe Ulița Veche nr 234, într-o casă foarte frumos îngrijită vopsită în alb și albasru, ca cerul. Aici este locul în care marele gânditor roman și-a petrecut primii ani din viată, copilaria fiindu- i umbrită de suferință mai ales când tatăl acestuia moare, iar mama sa a fost nevoită să vândă casa pentru a putea întreține familia și pentru a asigura educația copiilor. Chiar la intrare, pe fațada casei te întâmpina o poezie a autorului: „Sat al meu, ce porți în nume / sunetele lacrimei / la chemări adânci de mume / în cea noapte te-am ales/ ca prag de lume/ și poteca patimei. / Spre tine m-a-ndrumat/ din străfund de veac,/ în tine cine m-a chemat/ fie binecuvântat,/ sat de lacrimi fără leac.. sau „Aici e casa mea / Dincolo soarele și grădina cu stupi./ Voi treceți pe drum, vă uitați printre gratii de poartă. Și așteptați să vorbesc. – De unde să-ncep? ”
Dacă îți întorci privirea de la poarta cu gratii ale Casei Memoriale, vei vedea în depărtare Canionul Romaniei – Râpa Roșie, o adevarată arie protejată, geologică, și floristică, situată la câțiva kilometri de Sebeș, în Podișul Secașelor și străbătută de pârâul Secașul Mare, acesta fiind responsabil de crearea acestui tip de relief. Formațiunea s-a format prin eroziunea produsă de un torent în depozite sedimentare, prin alternanță de argile roșii cu gresii cenușii și roșii, ce se dezagregă ușor în nisipuri. Apar intercalații de microconglomerate, care se transformă în pietrișuri și argile prin spălare, acumulându-se la baza versantului.
Ne-am luat la revedere și de la Râpa Roșie admirând-o de această dată de la distanță și de la Casa Memorială a lui Lucian Blaga și ne-am îndreptat spre Târgu Mureș bucuroși de câte lucruri noi și interesante am avut parte și mult mai puternici, pentru că așa cum spunea Francis Bacon, marele filozof englez „Cunoașterea este prin ea însăși, putere”.
Prof. Hărșan Toma Smaranda Ioana
surse bibliografice:
https://viziteazaalbaiulia.ro/top10-locuri-de-vazut-in-albaiulia/
https://www.locurifaine.ro/alba-iulia-obiective-turistice/
https://instatravel.ro/i-giardini-di-zoe-2021/
http://www.profudegeogra.eu/rapa-rosie/
https://cetateasarmizegetusa.ro/sarmizegetusa-regia/prezentare-sit-arheologic/
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